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Enjoy one of the most scenic sections of the Appalachian Trail

Southwest Virginia has become a tourist destination for many reasons—scenic mountains, heritage music, farm-to-table restaurants, and Appalachian culture, just to name a few.  

But many people are passing through on a much larger journey: Hiking the Appalachian Trail. Thousands of hikers each year set out on the 2,200-mile long trail that connects Springer Mountain in Georgia with Mount Katahdin in Maine.

| Cody Myers Photography |

Of course, not everyone is taking the full trek across the country.  

The Appalachian Trail is filled with scenic sections that make for excellent day and weekend hikes, attracting people from across the country.  

For long-distance hikers, hitting Southwest Virginia is a mixed blessing: It is indeed considered one of the most scenic sections of the trail, following ridges with sensational views and tree-covered wilderness. You’ll find the wild ponies of Grayson Highlands as well as the town of Damascus, Virginia, known as the “friendliest town on the trail.” 

But with those highlights come the unavoidable fact that you’re in for a lot of climbing. The trail crosses the state line from Tennessee into Virginia at an altitude of 3,302 feet, and from there it’s up and down along the 167 miles of trail that go through the region. You’ll hit the highest point of Virginia, Mount Rogers—technically just off the trail on a spur trail—at an altitude of more than 5,700 feet, along with several other high points along the Appalachian Trail’s route: Whitetop and Pine Mountain. 

Of course, these climbs are also part of the fun, especially for day hikers who aren’t covering the full 550 miles of the trail that go through Virginia. For those looking for the best of Appalachian Trail experience in the state, here are some must-hit sections in Southwest Virginia. 

Damascus

Those doing the full AT hike look for hiker-friendly towns along the route, and Damascus has become known as one of the best.  

Damascus is also home to the annual Appalachian Trails Days festival each May, which brings nearly 20,000 outdoor enthusiasts to the town each year to take advantage of trail talks, outdoor gear vendors, food, and entertainment. 

Travelers on the AT will find restaurants, a post office, pharmacy, outfitters, plus several hostels and B&Bs where they can take a break. The Damascus Trail Center is a must-visit for trail information. For day hikers, Damascus is also the epicenter of opportunities for exploring the region, as seven major trails pass through the town. In addition to the AT, you can access the Virginia Creeper Trail, the Trans-America National Bicycle Trail, the Iron Mountain Trail, the Daniel Boone Heritage Trail, the Crooked Mountain Music Heritage Trail, and Virginia’s Birding and Wildlife Trail. You’ll also find loads of recreational opportunities and scenic views in the adjacent Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. 

After crossing the Virginia/Tennessee state line, the Appalachian Trail reaches downtown Damascus in three and a half miles. Here, you have a wide variety of hiking and biking options, whether you plan on sticking to the Appalachian Trail or incorporating some of the other trails as well. Some hikes that can be done in a day include: 

Hike from Damascus to the TN/VA state line – with option to continue to Backbone Rock: 

Beginning in the Damascus Town Park, follow the white blazes southbound.  Cross Beaverdam Ave. at Water St. and ascend the AT between two houses. The trail ascends on switchbacks, reaching a woods road in about ¾ mile. Continue past a campsite with a blue-blazed spring trail at 2 miles, then hike mostly uphill for 1.5 more miles to the sign at the TN/VA state line. Retrace your steps back to Damascus, mostly downhill. Total round trip hike distance: 7.5 miles. 

Option: If you have left a car at the Backbone Rock parking area close to Backbone Rock itself (the rocky arch over Rte. 133, built in the early 1900s for trains carrying lumber  – GPS 36.5939, -81.8150), you can continue your hike south past the state line sign into TN for just over a mile to a sign for the Backbone Rock Trail. Then hike down the Backbone Rock Trail 2.5 more miles to your car. The last part of the trail down to the Backbone Rock parking area has stone steps built by the CCC in the 1930s. 

This hike can be reversed with a shuttle to Backbone Rock. Then the hike would be 2.5 miles up to the junction of the Backbone Rock Trail with the Appalachian Trail, bearing right to go toward the TN/VA state line, then hiking mostly downhill 3.5 miles to Damascus. 

Loop Hike on the Appalachian and Iron Mountain Trails : From Damascus, start on the Iron Mountain Trail at the top of East 4th Street. The Iron Mountain Trail is blazed with yellow markings. After about two miles, you’ll find a short, blue-blazed trail which will connect you to the Appalachian Trail (with white blazes). Turn right to return to Damascus. The return trip across a ridge features views of nearby mountains as you descend. 

Loop Hike on the Appalachian and Virginia Creeper Trails:  Start in Damascus for this 8-mile, easy-to-moderate hike. Head east out of  town on the Appalachian Trail/Virginia Creeper Trail. Follow the white blazes for the Appalachian Trail, which crosses Rte. 58/91 and continues into the woods. Enjoy the ridge view for about four miles, before you cross a small wood bridge and turn right onto the Beech Grove Trail. Then descend a quarter mile to the Straight Branch Virginia Creeper Trail parking lot. Take the driveway down to the lower parking lot. From there, turn right on the Virginia Creeper Trail and head back into town. 

White Top: Amazing Views!

Hike south on the Appalachian Trail from the Elk Garden AT parking lot on Rte. 600 (GPS: 36.6462863, -81.5808302). In 2.5 miles, you will reach Whitetop Mtn. Rd. The views are good here, or you can choose one of these options for even better mountain views. Cross Whitetop Mtn. Rd. and continue hiking on the AT for another 8/10 mile to reach Buzzard Rock with 360 degree views on a clear day, including mountains in North Carolina. Then retrace your steps, mostly downhill, to your car at Elk Garden. 

 For views from a higher point, walk up Whitetop Mtn. Rd. as it ascends the mountain on switchbacks past where the Appalachian Trail crosses the road. 

 Note: It is also possible to drive up Whitetop Mtn. Rd. (FS 89, which starts on Rte. 600 one mile past the Elk Garden parking lot) to the high viewpoint. 

Mount Rogers

The Appalachian Trail

You can reach Virginia’s highest point (5,729 feet]) from two locations, with very scenic but challenging seven to nine mile, out-and-back hikes.  

The first hike option starts on Rte. 600, Whitetop Rd., at the Elk Garden AT crossing (GPS: 36.6462863, -81.5808302). 

From the Elk Garden parking area, head north on the Appalachian Trail through the fence and metal gate and ascend a hill with views in several directions. Adjacent to the AT is a part of the Virginia Highlands Horse Trail, which is also open to hikers.  

Enter the woods at the Lewis Fork Wilderness boundary and continue north on the AT to good views at Brier Ridge, then follow the AT about a mile farther north until you get to a half-mile spur trail marked with a sign to Mt. Rogers. The spur trail winds through spruce forest and terminates at a rock with a USGS marker embedded in it. 

Return to Elk Garden the same way you hiked up, this time descending the mountain. 

For the second hike option, Start at the Massie Gap parking area in Grayson Highlands State Park (GPS: 36.6335, -81.5054. 

From the parking area, cross a field to the Rhododendron Trail and ascend to the Park’s horse trail. When you reach the Appalachian Trail crossing with signage and white blazes, turn left. You will shortly reach a map kiosk and a fence with a gate. Go through the gate. You will now be off Park property and in National Forest.  

Continue to follow the white blazes over several rock outcroppings. About 3 miles from the Park, you will see Thomas Knob Shelter. Some long-distance AT hikers spend the night at shelters like this or sleep in tents or hammocks nearby. 

Pass the shelter and continue about ¼ mile farther south on the AT to the sign for the half-mile spur trail to Mt. Rogers. After an open area, this trail continues through spruce forest to a rock with an embedded USGS emblem. 

Return the same way, by retracing your steps down the spur trail, then the AT, to return to your car at Massie Gap. 

Besides the AT, there are other trails in this area you can use to vary the hike back. Use a trail app or buy a National Geographic print map of the Mt. Rogers area at the Park’s office. 

While it’s great to reach the Mt. Rogers summit, one of the features of this hike is viewing the wild ponies that live in the area. They help keep these bald mountains bald—that is, without significant tree cover—by eating the grasses and underbrush, which also is helpful in preventing wildfires. It also means that you get excellent panoramic views as you ascend the trail. Remember: do not feed or pet the ponies. That would encourage them to approach people and possibly nip them, looking for apples or other treats. 

Of course, the hikes described above are just some hiking options. Any section of the Appalachian Trail offers something for day hikers to enjoy. And it won’t take long to figure out why so many thru-hikers view Virginia as the most scenic section of this 2,200-mile National Scenic Trail. 

These hike suggestions were compiled by volunteers of the Mount Rogers Appalachian Trail Club, who maintain 59.4 miles of the Appalachian Trail and are based in Damascus, VA. Visit www.mratc.org for more hikes and information. 

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